I’ve been having a ball getting stuck into this Marfy coat pattern, but it’s thrown me a few curve balls, to use that universally understood American euphemism. Namely:
- There are no pattern pieces for the lining;
- I need to figure out how to do curved welt pockets,
Yikes. Thankfully, I’ve been able to find a lot of information on the interwebs around drafting lining pieces (like this resource by Sherry from Pattern Scissors Cloth), and it took many practise versions (and abject failures) to get a good finish on the curved welts. There was one blog post by Jilly Be Joyful who did a curved welt on a Japanese-style robe, which got me started. Still confusing as all hell though!!!
My first attempt at the curved welt pocket (photo on the left) – used the bias strip pattern piece included and just doesn’t sit flat – there’s a very definite ripple along the fold line of that bias strip. I attempted the same style again with different types of interfacing and that didn’t work either. For the final acceptable result (on the right) I drafted a pattern piece to match the curve and sewed them together so there’s a seam on the welt edge – giving a much nicer, flatter and more stable result:
Initially I completely over-thought the curved welt pocket process – it’s actually very simple once you get your head around the process. The single welts I’ve done in the past have had the same backbones as a double welt pocket, whereas these are a true single welt – the kind you see on RTW coats (funny that).
Thankfully I’ve also been able to work on things other than welts, so here’s where we are so far :)