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117-08-2009 Serenageo’s Blouse

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Today I’m going to blab on about how much I love the sewing blogosphere. Everyone is just so awesome. Case in point – when serenageo of Burdastyle posted this gorgeous, floaty top from the August 2009 issue of Burda mag, I commented that I loved it so much that I was going to try and track that issue down. Turns out that issue is coveted by many a sewing-enthusiast, so my extended bouts of online searching went mostly in vain. When I logged back in a few days later, she replied to say she’d be happy to send me a copy of the pattern. Cue ginormous grin!

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A little while later, I received a package from Romania. Not only had she traced the pattern for me, but also written me a lovely letter and included a super gorgeous crocheted collar (which I’m planning to include in another top at a later date. It’s taken me nearly six months to get around to making this though, so don’t hold your breath!). 

My initial muslin for this was a bit of a joke. Besides having bucketloads of ease, clothing in general that is straight up and down just doesn’t suit me. Unless you like the bag of potatoes look. So I took in a lot of ease, added a bit of shaping to the seams, a dart above the bust and cut back the ‘sleeves’ for a more flattering fit. The top itself was a breeze to put together – I even found two perfectly matching buttons to go at the front so had the added indecision of deciding which one to go for. From Buttonmania, naturally.

I finished the armscye with some self-fabric bias tape, but it ended up stretching and just generally looking a bit lame. So that got tucked under and sewn up:

BEFORE                                       AFTER  .
 
I made it with a cotton voile called ‘Then Smell the Mauve‘ from Tessuti. The fabulous thing about this fabric is its so light and breezy – but it’s almost impossible to tell the wrong side from the right side – perfect because the frill detail is single sided. I made this plus bias binding for around the frill edges.


All this from a meter of fabric – another meter is soon to be on its way to Romania for serenageo, so I hope she likes it as much as I do. So thanks Geo, you’re one totally awesome dudette!

The original Burdastyle photo:

 

The Stats:
00:00  Pattern Preparation (all thanks to Geo!)
07:30  Toile (cutting/sewing/fitting)
00:50  Fabric Preparation (cutting/interfacing)
03:55  Sewing
12:15  hours

Oh, and Merry Christmas everyone – hope you all have a wonderful, safe and happy break!

Melanie xo

07-2011-131 Burda Dress 6

07-2011-131: The Lace-but-not-as-you-know-it Dress

07-2011-131 Burda Dress 1

It’s lace, but not as we know it. And that’s why I love it!

07-2011-131 Burda Dress 2

I fell hard for this geometric styled lace when I saw it on the Tessuti blog (they also have it in black), back in January. I hot-footed it in there pronto to get some!

07-2011-131 Burda Dress 3

 

Totally inspired by the black lines in Chanel’s Spring Summer 2012 RTW collection, in which this lace featured (see here), I wanted to create a bit of an ode to this collection, using the #131 dress from Burda Magazine issue 07/2011 (also available as a down-loadable pattern here). 

 

Along with the lace at the front panel, I used a wedgewood blue stretch cotton from Clegs, and some black piping inserted strategically in the seam lines and also by cutting up the dress panels to get a diagonal line at the back. 

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Lining, Underlining and seams finished with rayon seam binding

I wanted a dress that I could wear during the cooler months (of which there are plenty where I live) and also I didn’t want my stretch cotton to pucker and crease every time I wore it. This fabric is the same type as the one I used to make my Green Peon-y, and it rather likes to get itself creased! I underlined it in a baby-blue 100% cotton flannelette which proved a solution to both quandries! 

After using a thick silk satin fabric to line my Vogue Suit, I was hooked! I used the same fabric again in black (also from Clegs) which should also insulate quite nicely :) I used the mat side of the silk satin to create the piping by cutting bias strips (same way as you would for making bias tape) then using my regular zipper foot (it’s the only foot I have that lets you get the needle position right to the edge of the foot) to encase the cord in the bias strips. 

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I really love the square neckline of the dress, and the split at one of the sides. My only bother with this pattern? No seam allowances. I would happily pay a bit extra for the pattern if it included these! I made the ultimate mistake when sewing my toile – I forgot to add them. My bad, but an annoying thing none the less.

As other sewists have discovered, the neckline on this pattern is low. I’m usually all for the occasional showing of a bit of decolletage, but even I needed to raise this a little! Using the selvedge of the lace to go over the seam edge also provide a bit of cover up. 

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I used silk thread to baste the lace to the backing so it can’t move independently of the dress. I’m over the moon that I happen to have enough lace left to re-create the gorgeous top below I pinned a short while ago – sadly it will have to wait until I get back – as by the time this post goes live I will be in Ecuador!!! Even better – I made up Pattern Runway’s Sweet Shorts which I am over the moon about – they really are gorgeous! So all I need is some on location photos… coming soon! :D

I’ve even got enough left over lace to make something else… I’m loving the look of this triangular lace panel top!

 

07-2011-131: A Chanel Ecru Lace Dress To Be

Ecru Lace, via the Tessuti Shop

How amazing is this lace? I may not be the biggest fan of the dress below (unless I wake up tomorrow with a hankering to look like a toilet roll doll), but I can definitely appreciate the lace.

Chanel Dress, RTW Spring 2012 via style.com

The lovely ladies from Tessuti and I are convinced this fabric is the real deal… The dress above also making the front page of Vogue Australia’s February edition:

February edition of Vogue Australia

Unfortunately my fiscal reasoning doesn’t allow me to make an entire dress from this lace, but I do have enough to make a feature panel and some little cap sleeves. Enter #131 from Burdastyle Magazine 07-2011, also available as a downloadable pattern on the Burdastyle website:

A few other bloggerette’s are making (or planning to make) this little number at the moment – and I’ve heard the fabulous square neckline that I’m loving about this pattern is scandalously low, but it’s a silhouette I keep seeing popping up:

     
Elie Saab Spring 2012 Resort, via style.com    

Unfortunately I made the ultimate Burda downloadable pattern mistake – and forgot to add seam allowances to my toile! So it’s a take two on that note.

I had originally thought to stick with the Chanel colourscheme of black and white (I loved the black geometric lines featured throughout their SS/12 collection), but considering I already have a white ‘day’ dress and that I’m a colour fanatic – I’m leaning towards a wedgewood blue possibly with a small slash of another colour, or maybe a hint of black piping as well?

I can’t remember when or where, but I recall reading at some point that a famous mid-last-century’s  actress once wore a skin-tight dress that was underlined in flannel to give a smooth appearance even when moving. Possibly the slip Elizabeth Taylor wore in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof? I really wish I could remember. But I love the idea of this, especially as we are heading into winter! Most ‘going-out’ dresses I have are light-weight and summery, so if I have a fancy occasion on in the winter, my options dwindle drastically. Seems like a perfect opportunity to give this flannel underlining business a whirl!

Elizabeth Taylor in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof – via classicmoviestills.com
Burda 8155 4

B8155: Christmas Cheer in Royal Blue

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Welcome 2012! I’m stoked to be starting off the new year with a new creation, this should be a good omen for all the finished projects to come I think! Although I’m a tad annoyed with myself for not ironing it before taking photos…

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The second version of my most favourite pencil skirt pattern – Burda 8155. This time I actually followed the instructions most of the way through as I’ve kept the waistband – unlike my first iteration where I used a gorgeous bright red grosgrain ribbon (see the Technicolour Dream skirt here).

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Mum was gracious enough to take the above photo – after which I was promptly told to sit up properly.

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I bought a gorgeous glass button from Etsy, and used a bound button hole on the waistband – you can see my bound button tutorial here.

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I found that had I left the length of the waistband as per the pattern (a size 38), it would have been too long. I cut about 6cm off the end – a much more manageable length! I ‘stitched in the ditch’ along the front leaving the seam allowance flat, reducing the bulk inside the waistband. The wool blend fabric was quite thick – so this worked perfectly, and the texture of the fabric meant that it’s nigh on impossible to see the ditch stitching at the front.

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I used the French seam finish technique along both of the side seams of the lining – you can see a tutorial on that here

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The fabric was a gorgeously soft royal blue basket-weave wool and nylon blend, by Alexander Wang and bought from EmmaOneSock. Beautifully thick and perfect for winter – lined in my favourite lining fabric – a black habotai silk. Shame I couldn’t get a zip with a colour to match quite properly… but one does the best with what one has!

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B8155: The Technicolour Dream Skirt

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Here is the first finished example of my favourite skirt pattern – Burda 8155. I love pencil skirts – so was curious to find out at what point in history they made their first appearance. 

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The most interesting anecdote has revolved around Mrs Berg – the first female aeroplane passenger back in 1908. This was of course when planes weren’t enclosed, so the pilots tied a piece of rope around her ankles (how romantic) to prevent her skirts from blowing up and undoing her modesty. Here she is:
 
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This photo became a famous postcard, and the fashion houses of the day soon created the above skirts legacy which was nicknamed the ‘Hobble Skirt’:
 
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There’s a fabulous dearth of information on the scandal of these skirts over at Edwardian Promenade. I can only image that over time as skirt lengths became shorter, we ended up with the version I’ve created:
 
 
I’m loving the grosgrain ribbon as the waistband – its a skirt look that seems to be popping up everywhere at the moment, from ASOS to Elli Saab‘s haute couture Spring/Summer 2011 range. 
 
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This skirt is the first step for me to start wearing more colour on the bottom, instead of just on the top. I think I’ll be getting quite a bit of wear out of it this summer!