M6891: Paradise Bay Shirt Dress

Oooh I’m clearing out the draft post archives today! This dress has been a FIRM favourite – never have I received as many compliments from strangers before as when I’m wearing this dress. I suspect this is a mix of the fabric print (which I think is one of Liberty’s better large scale prints – given I NEVER wear black and was so drawn to this print? Yeah, it’s a one two punch combo) and the twirly skirts. I’d love to say it was the perfect pattern match I achieved down the centre back seam and the front button placket, but I’m confident no-one has actually been looking that closely at me to notice. And I’d probably move away from them before they had the chance to say anything! Either way, it’s a proper dark horse, catching me off guard with how much I like this make.

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My second finished project of note for 2022 – the famed McCalls’ shirt dress 6891, variation D. When you’re in the mood for something shirty up top and skirty down bottom, this pattern is everything you need. I know this because I asked Libby (@liblib) as the reigning shirt-dress-knowledge-monarch for her favourite pattern, and this McCall’s was it. (She did also recommend McCall’s 6696 and the Megan Neilson Matilda, just in case you were interested).

Typically I go for a straight or pegged skirt – but there is always a time to side-step convention and try something new.

The fabric is – surprisingly, with that large scale floral print – Liberty, in the Paradise Bay C colour way (from the SS21 Atlas of Dreams collection) – which has a black background. This is rather personally controversial for me – I don’t wear black. Ever. In fact I actively avoid it at all costs.

In truth, I had thought that the black background was actually a dark navy when I bought the fabric on a whim online from Tessuti. And even then I felt drawn to it. Perhaps it’s the giant and colourful floral pattern, or perhaps that the black is more a complex combo of black/grey/blue – so whilst not the most complexion flattering this fabric doesn’t wash me out like black things usually do.

One of the challenges I set myself with this make was pattern matching the vertical seams. Never mind this required an extra full m of fabric that I had to scour the internet for and order in from overseas (this fabric sold out quite quickly) – and I’m very happy with 2 of the 3 key seam joins here. The centre back skirt, and the front bodice are bang on, if I do say so myself. The front skirt I did something weird with – I’ll blame the added confusion of the button placket – and this isn’t quite a match.

One of the other ‘must haves’ for my self-imposed challenge list was some nice deep hem facings for the full circle skirt. These facings are underlined with organza for a bit of extra bounce. This consumed the leftovers of my additional 1m of fabric over and above what the pattern packet called for. And also required a satisfyingly large amount of hand sewing. I’m also quite pleased with the very pretty 45deg seam (a mitre!) at the point as it transitions into the front facing – I’ve always wanted to try this finish. I like how the deep hem facing matches the width of the front facing here.

Otherwise – I changed the double front bodice dart into princess seams through doing a FBA to create more space here. I also removed the darts emanating from the waist – this is quite a fitted pattern and at the time of muslining this – Jan 2022 – I was 5-6 few kg’s heavier than I am in these photos – with the loss predominantly across my mid section. So I needed extra space around the waist – which removing the darts achieved. Going with the wide self-fabric belt makes this dress very versatile for fit – as it gives variable waist definition without restriction.

This meant a bit of maths to figure out the circumference of the waist seams of the four quarter-circle skirts, but that wasn’t too bad.

Also, I made the pocket bags bigger. And re-inforced the bias opening of the pockets with some silk organza selvedge scraps. I’m thrilled with the pockets – roomy and can hide a multitude of items underneath that swishy circle skirt!

Buttons from Buttonmania of course.

Ignoring the disheartening challenges of fitting the pattern to my ‘new’ body whilst having minimal brain bandwidth for such activities – this dress was a really lovely sew. Strangely enough, it pairs surprisingly well with my Chartreuse Coat too. I’m all for accidental non-orphan makes!

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Edit – for I did not include a picture of the pattern matching I was so pleased to have achieved!

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Back to the current day – Given my love for this make and it’s performance these last nearly-4 years, I’ve started on making it’s twin, having acquired a new length of large scale print liberty fabric, all I have to do now is find where on earth I put the pattern pieces for this pattern?!?!