V8307: A tailored collar

After spending WAY too much time staring at the photo of my toile and not being very happy with the collar, I realised I had put the blasted thing on around the wrong way. Oh dear. After ripping the thing off and getting it right, I decided to make some changes to the shape of it to more closely match the original:

Reducing the width of the collar on the right to come in line with the collar that crosses to front, and reducing the width of the collar on my right shoulder to give a more rounded look. I’ve also decided not to apply roll lines, as I quite like the way the collar sits flat.

Horse Hair Canvas Interfacing and Pad Stitching
With the updated collar cut out interfaced, I’ll be using horse hair canvas as another layer of interfacing rather than the silk organza of the bodice and sleeve cuffs.

It’s simply a matter of cutting out 1 piece of each of the collar pattern pieces, marking the seam allowances on, and machine basting along the neckline to the wrong side of the collar that will be the ‘under collar’:

You can see I’ve chalked out lines running parallel to the neckline – this is the guide for pad stitching – I’ll be doing a ‘101’ on this before the end of the week. In this case, I’m using a 1/4″ spacing close to the neckline, and a 1/2″ spacing for the rest of the collar before transitioning back to 1/4″ spacing at the collar corners.

Pad stitching two fabrics together gives stability and firmness, and the smaller the stitch, the firmer the result.

When your done, position your collar in the approximate shape it will take when attached to your garment, and steam the living daylights out of it (but don’t actually let the iron contact your collar). This helps to cement the shape in your fabric’s ‘memory’. Leave to dry out over night!

The under collar is ready to be sewn to the upper collar and then attached to the jacket when dry. Notch the seam allowances and iron the seams flat. 

I’ll be joining the collar to the jacket when I’ve got my lining prepped and ready to go.



  1. Hi, just wondering where you sourced the horsehair canvas from. I'm a melbournian who is interested in starting a tailored jacket. I'd appreciate it if you could give any suggestions. Thanx.

  2. Hi – sure! I get mine from either Clegs (on Elizabeth Street in the city) or at Tessuti (on flinders lane, also in the city). They generally keep it with the interfacing, so just ask at the counter. Goodluck!!

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