Happy New Year, everyone :) May 2018 be happy, safe and have lots of sewing for you!
Marfy 3889 – probably one of the simplest and quickest shirts I’ve ever made!
It’s from the 2016/2017 catalogue, and described by Marfy as “Shirt with gathered bodice. To be made in voile or crepe with contrasting edging”.
PATTERN
The pattern has a straight hem with a split at the side seam, and is not shaped (there is only one back pattern piece, two for the front, a sleeve, cuff and three collar pieces) apart from some gathering at the bust. The ‘contrast edging’ is in three pieces – one around the neck for the collar and two forming the button placket (one on each side).
This is my go-to size – the 46. It’s a boxy fit! Suprisingly to me, I chose to leave it be, apart from raising up the hem by 3cm. It’s definitely long on length, and I’m already long in the body.
After trying on my muslin with a work pencil skirt, I decided I quite liked the ‘blouson’ effect of the fabric billowing over a fitted waistband – I get enough shaping from that effect to satisfy my desired silhouette.
I think it looks far better tucked in, and given the pattern length and sketch, I suspect this is how its intended to be worn. As you can see – I really just don’t suit the boxy/shapeless look… but this shirt will be super handy should I ever be pregnant again. Lots of space!
I will definitely be making this again when I find the striped cotton shirting fabric I have in my mind – because the stuff I used for my muslin shows just how well this pattern can show off a stripe. I love the way they curve around the bust and point up towards the collar. Perhaps some might find this unsettling?
Nothing to see here. JUST THE MOST AWESOMEST OF COMPLETELY UNINTENTIONAL PATTERN MATCHING, EVER.
Pressure to replicate that fluke is on!!!!
The sleeve itself is interesting as well – no ease in the sleeve cap (which I love), and what I would call a 7/8 length?
It has a cuff that buttons up and one of those split things (I have no idea what it’s called? An internal placket?!?), a pleat AND some gathering. I had to draft my own facing for the split-thing, but that’s fine (actually, I suspect I may have lost the tiny pattern piece for this in my messy sewing space – as the next shirt I sewed up after this one (the Wiltshire Shirt) has the same split and it came with a pattern piece) – I copied what I did pretty much exactly on my Blue Blotch Blouse (McCalls 5929, now OOP). It worked better than I thought it would. And completed, I actually love how the volume is concentrated on the out-facing part of the sleeve because of the gathers.
The sleeve cuff didn’t have a marking to indicate where to start the overlap for the button/button hole. I presumed there was supposed to be an overlap, so I wrapped the cuff around my wrist and gauged that 2cm ought to do it. I could have gone a bit less, I think. I then just used the gathered section to make the sleeve fit to the remainder of the cuff.
The hem is just a simple fold up and under and top-stitch affair. It also has side splits. As it’s extremely unlikely I’ll ever wear this untucked – I didn’t put a great deal of effort into any special finishing. Just a quick and easy fold under, press and stitch.
Where as the inside front is just overlocked, except for the collar/contrast facing, which I handsewed down. Not sure why I didn’t just include this in the overlocked part, to be honest!
FABRIC
It’s pretty hard to go past Liberty. This one is a painterly print called ‘Pointillism’, in its blue/grey iteration (which is apparently an ‘abstract interpretation of the wild floral fields of Tesco’ – Liberty of London’s words, not mine). It’s from Shaukat.
The cuff and the collar are interfaced with a double layer of silk organza (all eeked out of scraps, yay!) for a bit of structure. Any interfacing in the front placket needed to be soft and pliable so as not to awkwardly affect the way the shirt blossoms out when worn tucked in.
I also wanted a teeny bit of contrast on the collar in this one, and found a matching pale-ish blue cotton (blend?!) from The Fabric Store. It’s of a lousy quality – the grainline shifting all over the place and other bizarre behaviour – but with only a tiny slither required it was quite workable. (I was thinking a bit about this as I worked on this blouse… and I don’t half wonder if the closing up of a lot of clothing businesses in Aus has driven the changes I’ve seen at Melbourne’s The Fabric Store recently – a really great spread of Liberty of London fabrics compared to years previous? Hey, not that I’m complaining – but they did used to have a fabulous array of different fabrics that were of decent quality, and that seems to have dried up recently. Has anyone else noticed this, or know anything about the change?)
Buttons are from Buttonmania. It was the first time I did the whole ‘send a scrap of fabric away for them to match buttons to’ thing, and I was a bit thrown off guard with the lime green buttons they texted back to me. Even after I said in the accompanying letter that I would be cool with some left-field options! haha, I was forced to chew on those words in the end. I agreed to the lime green option, and in the end was glad I did – they look SO much better against the fabric IRL than they did in those photos they sent through. A really perfect match to the lime and fluoro yellow highlights in the Liberty.
And that is all for Marfy 3889. One more shirt to blog about (Marfy 5156) and I’ll be up to speed on things I’ve finished during 2017. I’m also almost finished a dress (I’m waiting on Buttonmania to come back from their Christmas break so I can get buttons!) plus have another 2 muslins finished and ready go into final production… but those will have to wait as I’m currently prepping for a class with Susan in a week or so, which I’m very VERY excited about!
poppykettle 
That looks great. A Marfy being ‘quickest and simplest to make’ means you are darn good at sewing, and this shirt shows that. Good for you!
You’re too kind, thank you Donnalee!
Happy New Year! Love the blouse/shirt. The insert fabric really does add a lift as do the buttons. (Mind you I would have chosen blue buttons – cos I am a boring accountant..haha. But Buttonmania’s choice is fab.). Thanks for the links for the fabric and the buttons. Also (IMHO) the blouse out looks ok but would look really nice about 6 inches shorter at front and tapering higher on the sides. Still gives you the curves. Not for this one but now that you have a fabulous fitting garment – more possibilities. The stripes will look amazing.
How exciting your class(es) with SK! Great start to 2018.
Happy New Year to you too, Vicki :)
If I make it again with the intent to wear it untucked, I would 100% alter the length and give it shaping! Certainly that what I was intending to add when I first muslined. I honestly surprised myself by quite liking all the cotton billowing out at the waist, and hey, it’s nice to have a slightly different silhouette option in the wardrobe ;)
Wishing you a wonderful 2018! x
I love the buttons, they almost look part of the dabs of color. The stripes will really set off the unique composition of this pattern if you choose to do a second one! I’ve done lots of those sleeve facing things over the years, and I can’t think of what they call that one either!
Yes I definitely got lucky with the Buttons! I’ve always found it such a challenge to match to. I think I might have to have a read through one of the shirt making books I forgot I had and see if they make reference to that part… thanks Kathy :)
great use of that pretty fabric. love the colors. and yay! for unintentional pattern matching :) Happy New Year1
Thanks Beth :) Happy New Year to you, too!
I followed you from pattern review, this looks like a lovely shirt and I may try and make one like this
Thanks
I can definitely recommend it :) Thank you!
Wow! What details in this simple-looking shirt. I love the fabric, and the sleeves, and the cuff details, and the contrast fabric and THAT COLLAR!!
Yes, the collar is what attracted me to this pattern too – it’s a total winner, not to mention SO easy to sew up! Thanks Tia :)
Beautiful shirt! I’ve never made a Marfy pattern but I do have 2 in my stash that I couldn’t resist. Everything I’ve heard about Marfy is what scares me :) But seeing your blouse has nudged me closer to getting those patterns out!
Definitely give them a whirl, especially if you have a similar pattern with instructions you can reference along the way. The markings and notch locations will guide the way :) Goodluck, and thank you! :)
This is beautiful, Mel – really lovely! So excited that you will be sewing with Susan. I hope you have some very special project planned.
Thanks Karen, it’s one of my favourite things about sewing, taking a simple thing and making it special :) Yes I’m super excited too, having just finished my toile and getting my fabrics sorted! It’s going to be a non-tailored jacket, one of first Marfy patterns I ever bought :)
Love the blouse, the buttons are awesome.
Can’t help noting that your super quick sew is still immaculately stitched. with precision. As always!
That’s the thing with little details… if you don’t get it right, it stands out! I totally measured out and thread basted to get it perfectly in position haha – and I’m super stoked you noticed ;) Even with all that it took way less time that fiddling with a collar and all that… Thanks Winifred :)
I love your new blouse. I’m trying to figure out how to get my hands on the pattern without having the catalogue.
Thanks Anne :) You can just email them – they speak english :) It’s how I usually place my orders. I email them with the size, pattern number and provide my address and credit card details. They’ve always been very efficient :) I see they also have one of those contact us options on their website – http://www.marfy.it/contact-us.html
Goodluck :)
Happy New Year!! That piping detail is just gorgeous!!
Thanks Delphine! :) Happy New Year to you, too x
Wonderful pattern and I see why it’s your go-to. Your contrast bands add a touch of couture. Your muslin looks good enough to wear and I see loads of possibilities for using stripes. Happy New Year.
Thanks Mary :)
Love the neckline (I’m planning to draft a similar one for an upcoming jacket) and those inserts. From your pictures it doesn’t look too boxy actually. Stripes do look great
Lovely shirt, lovely detail and lovely fabric, but, yes! I noticed the same thing at The Fabric Store in Sydney last week. Lots of Liberty but the rest of the fabric range was disappointing.
Thanks Kathryn :) It’s bizarrely vilifying to know I’m not the only one who has noticed!
I smiled when I read the phrase about the wild, floral fields of Tesco. Tesco is a supermarket here in the UK.
Love the piping around the edges….very neat and well executed.
You actually make it seem so easy together with your presentation but I in finding this topic
to be really one thing which I feel I’d never understand.
It seems too complicated and very vast for me. I am having a look forward
for your subsequent post, I will attempt to
get the grasp of it!
I was wondering if you ever considered changing the layout of
your site? Its very well written; I love what youve got to
say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content
so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful
lot of text for only having 1 or two images.
Maybe you could space it out better?