I’ve been having a ball getting stuck into this Marfy coat pattern, but it’s thrown me a few curve balls, to use that universally understood American euphemism. Namely:
– There are no pattern pieces for the lining;
– I need to figure out how to do curved welt pockets,
Yikes. Thankfully, I’ve been able to find a lot of information on the interwebs around drafting lining pieces (like this resource by Sherry from Pattern Scissors Cloth), and it took many practise versions (and abject failures) to get a good finish on the curved welts. There was one blog post by Jilly Be Joyful who did a curved welt on a Japanese-style robe, which got me started. Still confusing as all hell though!!!
My first attempt at the curved welt pocket (photo on the left) – used the bias strip pattern piece included and just doesn’t sit flat – there’s a very definite ripple along the fold line of that bias strip. I attempted the same style again with different types of interfacing and that didn’t work either. For the final acceptable result (on the right) I drafted a pattern piece to match the curve and sewed them together so there’s a seam on the welt edge – giving a much nicer, flatter and more stable result:
Initially I completely over-thought the curved welt pocket process – it’s actually very simple once you get your head around the process. The single welts I’ve done in the past have had the same backbones as a double welt pocket, whereas these are a true single welt – the kind you see on RTW coats (funny that).
The main difference is that previously the welt’s I’ve made (like on my Sweet Shorts and Crimson Clovers) have been underneath the fabric, whereas these welts sit on top of the fabric.
Thankfully I’ve also been able to work on things other than welts, so here’s where we are so far :)
poppykettle 
so beautiful… this is gonna be a knockout!!
This is going to look amazing. There's also a little tutorial on lining a blazer that Jen from Grainline recently posted http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/07/06/pattern-tutorial-adding-lining-to-an-unlined-blazer/ It's not specifically for a coat but it could be useful. Best of luck!
It's coming along great! I can't wait to see the finished product!
Wow! I'm full of enthusiasm for this project, and it isn't even my own! Those curved welt pockets are impressive. This is going to be lovely.
Wow! This is really looking lovely! I'm so excited!
Colour me impressed. Marfy patterns are really scary. As are welt pockets and I didn't know there was such a thing as a curved welt pocket.
Wow!!!! This is so impressive. I can't wait to see the finished garment. You are such an amazing seamstress!
What a nice pattern – it's looking lovely and so are your great skills! I've only done one curved pocket in my lifetime (maybe there is a reason for that lol!), but the jets were narrow so it was a bit easier than a wider welt like yours!
Looking good. I love big projects like this. They're so satisfying and you learn so much.
That is looking amazing!! I was going to recommend JillyBe's curved welt tutorial, but I see you've found it already. :)
hui, the yellow welt against the gray looks super cool. these pics tease quite a bit, can't wait for the result.
Wow! Way to go figuring out that curved welt! That would have totally stumped me! This is going to be so gorgeous – I can't wait to see it!
DANG! Your coat is looking great so far! Have you looked at Gorgeous Ann's tutorial on welt pockets? She talks about curved ones. Here's the link: http://gorgeousfabrics.com/blog/2007/02/23/not-so-instant-replay-welt-pockets/
Thanks for that Anto – I'll definitely have to check your link out, and soon!
aw Rachel, you're making me blush!
Lets just say I'll be keeping my distance from curved pockets in the future!
You're absolutely on the money Bernice. I've learnt a stack load with this pattern. Here's to Forced Learning!
hehe – thanks though – Jilly's got some fabulous tips on her blog!
Thankyou! Hows the leather jacket coming along? Cheers for the link – I'll have to check it out asap.
Love! Nice work on the curved pocket – it looks perfect!
Am so looking forward to the finished article Poppykettle, I'm sure it's going to come out superb. Excited!
Eek! I can't wait to see this when it's all finished! I've always wanted to make a coat, but always fear it will take too long for my liking!! x
You have seriously whetted my appetite for Marfy. And your photos really have me anticipating your finished coat! The effort you put into getting everything just so really pays off, and reminds me how worth it the extra mile is. Awesome!!
And where is a picture of the total finished coat? The details are stunning!
It’s here :) https://poppykettle.com/2012/08/05/f2570-baby-its-cold-outside/